‘Adoring Ecuador — in spite of spooky caiman, scary towers and claustrophobic lava tubes.’
Yes, we made it. To the Amazonian jungle, the Andean peaks and the Galapagos Islands. There was plenty of excitement, though perhaps the most hair-raising bit was American Airlines cancelling our 6AM flight at midnight the night before.
We spent the first ten days in a remote lodge in the middle of the jungle, where swimming was allowed only in a caged area since there were caiman and piranha and sea otters roaming the waters. (Tempted to swim? I was most decidedly not.)
Though I did indulge in some tower climbing. For those unfamiliar with jungle birding (which may be most of you), towers and walkways suspended high above the jungle are pretty much a necessary evil, since the canopy is where the cool birds hang out. And with some tree heights well over 100 feet, there’s really no way to see, say, a paradise tanager without taking the plunge (hah) and hightailing it up a tower.
There were seven of us participating on this jungle adventure, five of whom went on to the Galapagos. After more than a week of muddy-trail-and-scary-tower togetherness, we’d formed a pretty tight bond. I’ve often said that these birding trips are like jury duty. You show up when and where you’re told; you eat together, talk together, pay attention to authority figures. And the Galapagos trip was almost literally like a jury since there were 13 of us (12 jurors and an alternate).
Usually on these trips there is a participant who is The One. He/she is maybe a little too loud or too whiny or who has some other personality trait that’s, well, annoying. Like, there was a woman on a Panama trip who insisted on being called “Raven,” though she had a perfectly good normal name (Rebecca, I think it was.) I responded to this request by “mistakenly” referring to her as Sparrow.
And then there was the famous instance of the vegan on the East Africa Tour. In those days it was pretty tough to provide for a vegan in the wilds of Africa while traveling from lodge to lodge every day. Every time we unpacked our tasty lunches, we’d look to see what nasty surprise Jodi would find in her box labelled “Vegan” (or sometimes just “V”). The funniest was the day she found her box filled with a hand of bananas — and nothing else. Well, nothing else but the giant tarantula nestled inside. And then, on our last night together, Jodi, like the rest of us, ordered a pizza. “You’re having pizza?” inquired our baffled guide Terry. “I thought you were vegan.” “Oh, I was just trying out being a vegan on this trip, just to see if I liked it.” she replied, as Terry’s face grew red and his head spun around on his neck.
We had a vegan on this tour too. But he was very nice. And got to eat a lot of avocados.
Suffice it to say that the Galapagos Islands themselves lived up to all the Bucket List hype. I will have more than enough material for several more blog posts. (Oh, and remind me to tell you all about when we almost drove off a cliff up in the Andes.) But before I sign off today, let me tell you about the Lava Tube.
This is pretty self-explanatory. The Galapagos being volcanic in nature, there are lots of big ole “tubes” where lava once flowed. We had just finished a rather lovely lunch (no hands of bananas with clinging tarantulas) at the tortoise preserve when Willy, our guide, suggested a post-prandial stroll — through a nearby Lava Tube. “How long is it?” someone asked. “About two football fields. Silence. Asked for a show of hands, only Dude Man raised his. Then one other guy raised his. It was only after one other woman raised her hand that I figured “what the hell,” and raised mine too.
Our intrepid little band set out. There were many steep stairs to the entrance, but the beginning wasn’t too bad. There was even lighting. But, as we forged on, the tube got narrower — and shorter. Until, at one point, we had to sort of “limbo” our way under a rock outcropping. Here I was, scrunched up under a ten-foot span of cooled-off lava that was 3 feet from floor to ceiling. Literally a once in a lifetime experience.
Whew. More adventures next week. Now I really need to get back to Barbara Pym.
Amagansett, New York. August 2022
10 thoughts on “Galapagone”
Wow–amazing adventures and photos. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for reading, Becca! I’m ashamed to admit that I’ve let my blog slide. But I have a good reason: daughter’s wedding celebration! Stay tuned for deets (and pics)!
More power to you two!
Thanks Ruth! We could use a little more power!!!
I only have 4 words for you — I am SO jealous!!
Yo Nancy! You should GO! It’s really a fascinating place xoxo
Welcome back, Alice! Glad you made it. Not on my bucket list, but your bucket is packed with more adventure, for sure.
Such a great bonding-with-nature time you two had. The most I get here in Southern California are a couple of seals honking at the world and one time a stingray didn’t like my landing on him after I jumped a wave. That sting was the worse pain ever. We have lots of lizards. but they’re only 5 inches long at most. Fun to watch their mating dance moves.
Must have been great human bonding as well. Especially ones as brave as you two.
Enjoy your settled-down life now and dream of English Lords and Dames in castles. No doubt on your bucket list. Looking forward to next Tuesday’s sitcom!
So great to hear from you! Yes, we really did a ton of bonding with nature. And each other (!) I must say that these trips bring us together — there’s nothing like navigating a Lava Tube a deux to form a lasting bond. Till next week, stay away from those nasty stingrays! xoxo
Alice! I am so height phobic that I broke out in hives just reading your account of the bridge. Do let me know when you get home b/c I don’t ;think I can get thru another one of these adventures until I know y0u are safely re-ensconced in your 350 feet.
Oh yes, dear Ina. Those towers were challenging indeed. Oddly enough, coming down wasn’t nearly as scary as going up (!) And once I got up there, I was okay. It was the CLIMBING! I am home now for a bit anyway. Leaving soon for more adventures — this time in the wilds of Canada!