‘I didn’t think I wanted to go there. Until I did.’

It’s been so long since I’ve posted a story, you Lovely Readers probably thought I’d been to the ends of the earth and back.

Well. You’re not wrong.

Dude Man and I just got back from Antarctica. Yes, that Antarctica, the one I said (in my post “The (South) Polar Express”) I’d rather be drawn and quartered than go to.

As I explained in that ten-year-old post — excuse me; the fact that I’ve been writing this darned blog for ten whole years is more amazing than a trip to Antarctica — I have always been fascinated by polar exploration. I now have three bookshelves devoted to books like this, my latest:

The story of the Mawson Expedition. Mawson was an Australian; this is written by him and it’s actually funny. If freezing your keister off can be funny

So, when an email from Field Guides, our bird-trip specialists of choice, popped up in my inbox, I was like, “Hey, why not?” As Dude Man would say (and did), we need to do trips like this “while we still can.” (I got him a tee shirt with that printed on it for Christmas last year; he’s pretty much worn it out.)

Avoiding icebergs (and shooting penguins) in a crowded little Zodiac

Oddly enough — or maybe not so oddly? — Antarctica is a very popular destination these days. I was at a fancy-lady luncheon about a month before leaving, and the woman next to me asked if I had any trips coming up. When I mentioned going there, she piped up, “I just got back from Antarctica!”…then the woman on my other side said, “And I’m going next month!”

Enjoying myself, gosh darn it! (That’s our ship anchored in the background)

And then a good friend of mine said her soon-to-be-son-in-law was going — and he happened to be on “my” ship (!) Sheesh. Is there anywhere I could go that isn’t, well, crowded? (I just answered my own question. Papua New Guinea. Definitely not crowded. And for good reason. See “New Guinea was a Once-in-a-Lifetime Experience” for gory deets.)

Me with new coincidental buddy Dave, leaving our ship, the Ortelius,  at Ushuaia

But enough about making new friends. Did we see any penguins, you probably want to know. Well, duh. We saw penguins on rocks, penguins on nests, penguins jumping on and off icebergs. We even saw penguins bringing gifts to their girlfriends — perfect little pebbles for their nests:

It got kind of ridiculous because we weren’t supposed to get close to the penguins — but they kept getting close to us.

Another new friend, Barry, makes a connection with a King Penguin chick

There were also many seals and whales and icebergs and floes. But, best of all, lots and lots of Shackletonia. There were lecturers on the ship who knew even more about Sir Ernest than I did. And we got to visit the waterfall the scooted down and the whaling station he stumbled into. We even toasted him at his gravesite! And, unprecedentedly, we got to see Point Wild, which figures greatly in the Shackleton Saga. (Read a short version here; but I highly recommend digging into The Endurance, by Alfred Lansing. Total page-turner.)

Totally inappropriate expression at a gravesite, but I was so darned happy to be there

Speaking of happy, guess who’s going to be here for Thanksgiving? And just look at what he learned while we were cruising around the icebergs. Things are going to be exciting!

Of course I brought him a whale of a gift:

A little right whale. Stuffed — perfect for Thanksgiving!

But here’s the best gift — and I got it even before they left for the airport this morning:

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

Amagansett, New York. November 2025